The men in your wedding party can be as distinctively dressed as the women. It only takes a little time and thought to determine which style of formalwear best suits your overall wedding style.

The men's clothing should be a reflection of the formality of your wedding as well as the style and the time of day. It is easiest to coordinate your wedding if you decide on the men's wear after the bride has chosen both her own and her attendants' gowns. This allows you to choose a style and color which will complement the women's attire. You will find many different styles, colors, patterns, and accessories. The factor which should most influence your decisions is the style of your wedding. If it is very formal, will a paisley cummerbund look silly? If it is more relaxed, will black tie look too stiff?

Any man who is considered a part of the wedding party. This would include the groom, his attendants, fathers of the bride and groom, and perhaps grandfathers. If a man other than the bride's father is giving her away, he, too, should wear matching formalwear.

You should begin looking for formalwear from six to nine months before your wedding date, or as soon as you have decided on the women's wear. The earlier you make your decision, the more selection will be available.

Most men rent formalwear for a wedding. There are many shops in the Rochester area which specialize in renting men's formal wear. Look for a store which offers many different styles with a wide selection of accessories. This store should have informed salespeople, as well as a reputation for reliability. Many shops also offer wedding packages, such as money-saving specials or other incentives for weddings that book early.

The shop will need your wedding date to reserve the formalwear. Usually you will be able to pick up the clothing on Thursday or Friday, and return it on Monday for a weekend wedding.

Most formalwear shops have measurement forms available. You ask the out-of-town groomsmen to take them to a local (to them) formalwear shop, where they can be measured and the form filled out. It is industry courtesy for a shop to do this free of charge. The form is then returned to the shop where the formal is being rented.

Double breasted: Two vertical rows of buttons in front, one to close the coat, and one for decoration.

Single breasted: One row of buttons in front.

European fit: These are more cut in at the waist, designed for a trimmer man.

Lapels: Part of coat that folds back onto chest. One of three styles: peaked with a cut that points upward; notched, with a cut at the collar points outward; or shawl, with no cut in the lapel.

Shoulders: Either padded or natural.

Pockets:These may have a flap over them, or have a border at the top. A Besom pocket is inset, with a narrow trim across the top.

Cutaway (Morning coat): Long, tapered tails from waist, in black or dark gray.

Dinner jacket: Similar to the classic, but with a shawl collar.

Spencer coat: Open coat, without buttons, cut right at the waistline.

Stroller: Semiformal suit jacket cut like a tuxedo.

Tails: Long, formal coat cut in at waist in front, long and tapered tails in back.

Traditional shirt: Shirt is white, and may have either buttons or studs (pearl, gold, onyx) to close the shirt.

Pleated shirt: Pleats run down front of the shirt on both sides of the buttons.

Wing collar: Stand-up collar, with points extending over neckwear.

French cuffs: Cuffs use studs instead of buttons.

Spread or Lay-down collar: Same as found on dress shirts.

Ascot: Gray and black striped scarf, worn with wing collar shirt.

Bow tie: Smal bow at collar. Clip-on or self-tie, many colors and patterns.

Four-in-hand tie: A knotted tie, like a business tie. Should be worn with a spread collar.

Waistcoat (vest): Usually in a matching fabric, white or gray.

Cummerbund: Broad fabric band worn around the waist, usually pleated. (Pleats are worn face up.) These come in many different colors, fabrics and patterns. Braces (suspenders) can be worn with a cummerbund.

Shoes: These should be plain toed, highly polished, preferably patent leather.

Opera pumps: Patent leather slip ons, with ribbon bows on the toes.

Studs: These take the place of buttons on a formal shirt. They should match the cuff-links.

Optional Accessories: Suspenders (braces), top hats, canes, gloves, spats, pocket squares, scarves, tie tacks, stick pins.

• The coat should allow free movement, and lay smoothly across the back.
• The hem of the coat should be slightly below the wrist when the arms are straight down. The shirt sleeves should fall 1/2" below the jacket sleeve.
• The collar of the shirt should hug the neck.
• Trousers should fit comfortably. You should be able to squat in them. The hem of the pants should touch the shoes in front and should be even with the top of the heel in back.
• Shoes should be comfortably loose.

• Traditionally, all men in the wedding party wear identical outfits. The groom may wear a different, but complimentary outfit.
• Black is always appropriate.
• Many grooms choose all white to match the bride.
• It is important that all accessories match, even shoes. It can make a big difference in the overall look, especially in your pictures.
• The groom pays for his own tuxedo, ushers in the wedding pay for theirs.
• Socks should be over the calf, and should match the color of the pants.
• Be sure to try on the entire ensemble when it is picked up. If there are any problems, they can be most easily fixed at that time.
• If you leaving on your honeymoon right away, make arrangements for someone to return your tuxedo. Be sure to empty all your pockets.

• What formalwear best suits the style and time of day of the wedding?
• Do you have as wedding package available?
• What does it include?
• Are shoes or other accessories available?
• Are they part of the package?
• At what point before the wedding should the men be fitted?
• When should the appointments for fittings be made?
• How do you fit groomsmen who are out of town?
• When can the formalwear be picked up?
• Can the entire ensemble be tried on at that time?
• Are alternations included?
• Do you have this sock on hand?
• When must the tuxedos be returned?
• Is there a late fee charged for over-due tuxedos?
• If so, how much is it?
• What are your policies on damaged formalwear?

© Wedding Planner 2002